To the west of our house lived Sitarama Iyer, an advocate by qualification. However, I have never seen him going to court. He normally stayed in the house most of the time going for evening walks dressed formally in coat, turban and shoes. Most of the time, he walked up to the nearby post office to post a letter or a packet consisting of his writing about a topic. His wife, Meenakshi Bai, used to call my grandfather "guru" (which was his pet name in childhood) as she claimed to be his sister by her choice. There was a third person in the house by name Lakshmi Bai who was the sister of the afore said lady. I recollect there was a fourth person who was the mother of the two sisters but since she was very old, her movements were restricted to the back portion of the house. The sister duo looked imperious with silver rimmed spectacles and a command over the language. They were the daughters of an ICS officer who named them thus because the suffix "Bai" is reserved for Maratha royalty and not for common womenfolk. Our conversations happened mostly in the terrace or in the front thinnai. They rarely came to our house. Even when we had gone it was always a very brief visit. Sitarama Iyer was reported to be an intellectual and a congress supporter to boot. He also wrote many articles on Hindu philosophy. Some of his concepts could not be understood by me. Once I remember he showed an article to my grandfather for review. I recall the illustration in the proposed book which he was trying to explain to my grandfather. "See, Guru the Brahman above, the man in the middle and the tiger at the bottom. This represents the entire spectrum of the spiritual experiences." My grandfather listened to him with a puzzled expression.
To the east of our house, there lived many tenants some constantly changing their residences. It belonged to Kallur family. It was headed by a gentleman about whom I remember only one thing. He used to go to Arya Bhavan for his breakfast. "I am going to Arya
Bhagawan" used to be his announcement in the morning. His loyalty to Arya Bhawan and his description of the Dosa he ate was a topic for discussion among us. I never went to Arya Bhawan. We patronised Venkata Lodge nearer to our house.
In that house, as I said earlier, there were many tenants. One of them was Venkatrama Sastri. He was a Telugu speaking man. He had two daughters. Ammalu and Chelli. Ammalu was much elder to me and we had limited interactions as he got married and left. Since Chelli was nearer my age, we used to interact more. Both sang very well. They were frequent visitors to our house. My grandfather spoke in telugu and so he had a soft corner for them. He had one son my name Muthu. In the night after 9 PM, he would go to the terrace of the house which was only covered with some palm leaves. he would sit there and practice in his flute. I remember he used to play "
Telisi rama chinthana tho namamu" by Tyagaraja. In the quiet nights, the sound of his flute wafted soothingly across the walls and reached us. My grandfather liked this song very much and translated it to explain to for me.
Just one more house to the east, we had Dr Kasiviswanthan. His son was the famous Mridangam player Umayalpuram Sivaraman. I used to be a permanent visitor to his dispensary as I had a chronic problem of cold, cough and fever when I was young. Once he refused to treat me unless I had a hair cut. He poked fun at me saying that I looked more like a "girl" with my long hair. As he was very stern, we preferred "The Pharmacy" over Dr kasiviswanathan. Of course, I started having hair cuts regularly afterwards.
Just opposite our house was a very big house but with multiple tenants. All of them were almost at the poverty level. Fights and quarrels among them were common. Sometimes, they reached our house for judgment. I remember one of the ladies used to come to my grandmother for advice saying that her husband had hit her in a rage. My grandmother would call that man and tell him, " தென்னம் தோட்டம் சாஸ்த்ரிகளே, அவ பின்னலை ப்பிடிச்சு இழுத்து அடிச்சேள். அது தப்பு தான் "
Diagonally opposite our house to the west was Satagopa Iyengar's house. I have never met him as he passed away some years before I was born.. But, his son's brother-in-law
Chellappillai was my class mate for some years in The Native High School. Satagopa Iyengar's widow lived in poverty after her husband passed away. I was able to see the pain in her face as she was reduced to that stage after being the wife of a famous lawyer. If money goes everything goes. Her son was a loafer. All the time, he sat on the swing cursing his mother and his wife for everything.
Athamma as she was called tried her best to improve the conditions of the house but she was unable to do that. she once called my grandfather and asked for some loan for rebuilding the back portion of the house and my grandfather did not give that amount. Still, our relationship continued.
One of the prominent lawyers P Sundaresa Iyer lived near our house. My grandfather and he were probably class mates because they were in very friendly terms. Both could exchange jokes about the colleagues or the other lawyers freely. Next to his house was the "Kumbakonam Arts School." Mr Krishna Rao was the principal of the School. They conducted exhibitions of paintings and sculptures done by their students once in a year and my grandfather invariably visited the school during that time.
There were two large houses built very tastefully some distance away from my house. They were named Gopala Vilas and Shri Vilas. Unlike the other houses which started with Thinnai, these houses had a garden in front with a beautiful arch on which the names were inscribed. i was told that the family migrated during the First world war from Madras and they were highly connected with the elite. I recall the lady of the house "Bhavani ammal" used to call my grandfather as "Thambi" as she also belonged to Madurai like my grandfather. My friend krishnan visited the house daily apparently to do some odd jobs. he brought several nagalinga flowers for Puja from the garden. Evan after the demise of Bhavani ammal our friendships continued.
With all the contacts and visits, my grandfather did not consider himself to be a "proper" Kumbakonam citizen. He talked about himself as a person belonging to Madurai or Pudukkottai or Tiruvallur but never Kumbakonam. He spent almost 45 years in Kumbakonam and spent less than five years in each of the places mentioned above but he somehow had an attachment to those places.
According to a verse, Kumbakonam was considered to be a place which could grant Mukthi even for those who had performed sinful acts there. This is due to the significance of Mahamkham which happens once in twelve years.My grandfather made a parody of that verse which is slightly irreverant to Kumbakonam and its fame for eradicating sins.
Original verse:
சர்வ க்ஷேத்ரே கிருதம் பாபம் கும்பகோணே வினச்யதி
கும்பகோணே கிருதம் பாபம் கும்பகோணே வினச்யதி
Parody by my grandfather
சர்வ க்ஷேத்ரே கிருதம் பாபம் கும்பகோணே வினச்யதி
கும்பகோணே கிருதம் பாபம் கொட்டையூரே வினச்யதி
கொட்டையூரே கிருதம் பாபம் ஒரு கை முட்டையோட வினச்யதி
Kottaiyur was a village few miles west of Kumbakonam towards Swamimalai.
"Muttai" in Kumbakonam Tamil is the dried cow dung used for burning.
* Cottage in swami hills refers to the house in which we lived in Kumbakonam. This phrase was used once by my grandfather when I asked him that as some people go in summer to Kodaikanal and Ooty where they have a cottage whether we would also be able to go and stay like them one day. My grandfather replied that he already has a cottage near swami Hills (swamimalai) and he referred to his house as the cottage.